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Bula!

Bula!

The Luxurious Romance of Fiji

Bearing only the essentials for my week-long island hopping adventures throughout Fiji over my shoulder, I frantically ran to the tiny airstrip on Nadi International Airport, Fiji’s major center of city bustle and commerce. “Did I miss the flight to Vomo Island?” I feverishly ask the seaplane pilot Jerry, who is donning a bright magenta Bula shirt and bathing trunks (island casual is taken seriously around here). “No worries!” he exclaims. “You’re on Fiji time now which means no time at all” he says, signaling for me to join him in the passenger seat.

VOMO ISLAND RESORT

The gracious pilot slides open my window for a “clearer view” as I point my camera down at the glistening Pacific Ocean below. I’m not sure that the spectrum of blues and greens with deeply carved coral inlets could offer a more crystalline vision but I click anyway. After all, the serene tropical landscape of Fiji is one that I’ve only imagined until now. My eyes scoured the vast terrain in search of inhabitants on our way to our first destination, Vomo Island Resort, a stylish yet unpretentious 29-villa enclave just off the coast of Taveuni. Our smiling resort host Geoffrey appeared on the beach to escort me through palm tree-lined sandy paths to the contemporary island paradise where I was welcomed with a big cheerful Bula by the Fijian staff members. At last, I have arrived in Fiji and I am already captivated by its mesmerizing beauty!

 

After dropping my bags down in my chic oceanfront bure (a traditional Fijian thatch-roofed hut) which opened onto what felt like my own private beach. The calm blue waters were so inviting that I ventured to the activity hut for an afternoon sail and snorkel. The easy-going staff jumped at the chance to take me onto the open ocean, no reservation required. An old Fijian gentleman named Akuila shared his extensive and fascinating knowledge of the history of the land and its people as the gentle breeze guided the Hobie Cat. Everything I’ve heard about the warmth and genuine kindness of the Fijian people came to life. Before I knew it the sun was setting into the endless horizon, so I took a stroll to the Rock, a cocktail lounge nestled atop a rock (of course) on the edge of Vomo Island. I joined a tiny crowd of chic honeymooners had gathered to sip tropical cocktails, just in time to take in the finale of the most breathtaking sunset imaginable. We moseyed off to dinner at Beyond the Reef. Musicians throughout the meal, a delicious prawn green papaya salad and crispy Walu, a local white fish, after which the Fijian staff invited guests to take part in a traditional Kava ceremony. We gladly succumbed to the friendly Fijian melodies, simply accompanied by the pure strains of an ukulele. I learned quickly that the Fijians are overwhelmingly gracious and welcoming in allowing guests a glimpse into their culture, mostly unspoiled by modern-day influences.

 

To stay at Vomo Island Resort is to seek pure serenity and master the art of relaxation. The only sounds I hear throughout my stay are palm trees swaying in the wind and the ocean’s gentle crashing waves. The simple pleasures of grazing the pebble-strewn shores for sea shells, snorkeling abundant coral reefs and lounging by the infinity pool take precedence over any other demands in this island paradise. Vomo’s allure lies in its seaside seclusion with little modern day distractions. I have literally traveled back to simpler times with no cell phone or e-mails to distract me from my sun-drenched bliss. Travelers seeking escape from the clamor of everyday life will revel in Vomo’s hypnotizing afternoon breezes and endless time to do as much— or as little— as they want!

 

Vomo imbues a sense of chic sophistication without interrupting the natural beauty of the island. The dark silvery shades and minimalist design of the resort lend an organic style. Titanium silver lounge chairs perched at the waters edge near my bure somehow blend naturally beneath a canopy of straw and fragrant palms overhead. Whether atop the mountain lookout point or tucked away on a hammock beneath a coconut tree, the many secret hideaways of Vomo make you feel as if you're the only one reveling in this secluded paradise.

 

YASAWA

We jet from trusty seaplane to speedy motorboat on our way to Yasawa Island, the northernmost island of the Yasawa Chain. I am looking forward to the many underwater activities as I’ve heard Yasawa’s reefs and shallow lagoons are world-famous for snorkeling. I quickly discovered that the bright, colorful coral and fish are abundant, but it’s the endless stretch of dune-backed beaches and ultimate sense of privacy that make Yasawa a true island paradise. The glimmering sand stretches for miles. If it weren’t for the whimsical "just married" imprints from a honeymooners sandal's, I wouldn’t have known anyone else was staying at the resort.

 

A trip to the local village just outside the resort grounds is by far the most fun. Una, our soft-spoken Fijian tour guide led a small group of us along brightly painted plantation style homes where women sat on paula mats that displayed intricate shell necklaces, carved wooden masks and vibrant sulus (silk wraps). I bought a striking necklace from the market which I later discovered, to my delight was made of sterling silver and coconut shells that lined the water's edge. As Una led us up the hill toward the Bacara School we heard the children loudly practicing English riddles and rhymes. Una turned to us and said “The children know you’re coming!” Bearing huge smiles, the school kids jumped up and down exuberantly shouting Bula! It is this kind of glimpse into Fijian culture that made my trip so special; to truly experience the lighthearted kindness and hospitality of the locals is priceless. French novelist Marcel Proust poignantly said, “The voyage of discovery lies not in seeking new lands but in seeing with new eyes.” Fiji is truly a wondrous land to discover.

 

An authentic Mongolian barbecue awaited the group poolside back at the resort. Vignettes of fresh lobster, local white fish and an array of vegetables and savory sauces lined the picnic table for a “make your own stir fry” on the grill. Afterward Nico and Meli, my favorite boat guides, stood beneath the straw activity hut on the beach and motioned for us to join them on a trip to the Blue Lagoon Caves. A quick boat ride brought us to a village where the owner of the caves stood in the knee-deep water holding a key on a string. This would allow us entry to the magnificent caves for the ultimate in underwater exploration. I knew this would be an adventure that I couldn’t miss! After all, Nico said that you haven’t actually visited Yasawa until you’ve swam in the waters of the caves. He regaled us with fascinating tales of the healing powers of the ancient caves and the legend of the eagle who scattered Fiji into the 300 plus islands that exist today. The more adventurous of the group immersed themselves underwater to investigate and my intrigue overrode my fear of dark, enclosed spaces as I took a big deep breath and followed my trusty tour guides to the other side. Luminous specks of light could be seen cascading through the limestone rock crevices. Meli counted to three and a loud, deep "bula!" echoed throughout the caves.

 

QAMEA

I reluctantly left Yasawa Island and caught a flight to Qamea Island Resort just off the coast of Taveuni. On the way to catch our speedboat at the dock, we stopped at Audrey’s Cafe by the Sea to sample her famous homegrown coffee and heavenly chocolate cakes. Its not uncommon for brides to drop in for a freshly baked wedding cake on the way to their beachside ceremony! From the boat we caught a glimpse of the Garden Isle lined with magnificent billowing trees that form a stunning canopy along the beach. Our effervescent resort host Shelley welcomed us with exotic leis and a tropical fruit refreshment as we disembarked the boat. I immediately breathed in the crisp, fresh air and noticed the lush, jungle-like atmosphere of Qamea. I was anxious to explore this private island paradise that the Robb Report deemed “One of the World’s Top Ten Luxury Exclusive Hideaways.” As a runner, I was quite pleased to discover a sandy path that curves around rainforest clad hills for guests to utilize during their stay. And for those travelers who want to take time to relax and delight their senses, the spa at Qamea offers the ultimate in exotic treatments. One afternoon my host arranged for me to have an Aromatic French facial in the Beachfront Guinot Spa. Filo, my gentle spa technician soothed and rejuvenated my skin using cooling tropical plant extracts. The results were instantly noticeable with guests commenting on my glowing complexion!

 

My bure was just steps from the waters edge where red and blue fishing boats line the shore. With no clock in sight, I rely only on a deep drum beat that sounds to signaling dinnertime— my only scheduled obligation for the day. As I sit at the tiki bar sipping on a delicious margarita blended Fijian style (simply add orange juice) Shelley rounds the corner bearing trayfuls of the freshest ahi sashimi caught just off the shores that morning. Guests leisurely stroll into the restaurant at different intervals leaving their sandals at the door making for a relaxed, family-style ambiance. In fact, the guests are on a first name basis with the staff members, sharing stories and laughter throughout their meals. I savored every bite of my coconut shell bowl full of succulent shell fish, calamari, and lobster. Shelley told us how the massive teepee-like structure of the restaurant was the only remnant of Hurricane Erin in 2001, and that the boutique resort was quickly restored. The reemergence of this paradise island left no element to chance— Qamea’s interiors pay close attention to detail. Textiles, masks, and intricate hand-carved furnishings made by Fijians in the local villages adorn the living areas. I’m basking in the Pure Fiji coconut and pineapple bath products that stimulate my senses in the polished stone open-air shower. Before I enter my oceanfront bure, I dip my sandy toes in sea shells of fresh water on my doorstep. These little touches made it difficult to move on.

 

ROYAL DAVUI

I was highly anticipating our arrival to the glamorous ultra-private retreat, Royal Davui off the coast of Fiji's main island, Viti Levu. With sixteen split-level vales each with their own plunge pool perched high atop tree-covered cliffs, Royal Davui is the last word in exotic chic. Crisp navy blue and white rooms feature teak panel floors with a nautical décor. I received yet another warm welcome from the genuine Fijian staff, a delicate shell necklace in hand. Upon entering my thatch-roofed vale I immediately slid into my own plunge pool (each room has one) offering a glimpse of the blue beyond. I glanced at the welcome letter in my vale which read simply, “Royal Davui is about doing as much or as little as you like.“ The previously uninhabited Stuart Isle does indeed invite repose and quietness.

 

A Marine Centre, unique to this eco-friendly resort, offers submarine coral viewing deemed “lazy snorkeling” in which a submarine will make a trip around the 8-acre island allowing you to see the amazing coral in air-conditioned comfort. Surfing is high on the agenda, too— just a boat ride away is one of the best surf breaks in all of Fiji known as Frigate’s Passage. My host Greg Williams informed me that the break on the bounding reef of the Beqa Lagoon is “not for the faint of heart!” Greg invited us to dinner in the resort’s banyan-tree-canopied restaurant for the finest in five-star cuisine from Australian chef Anthony Kramer. The following morning, on Palm Sunday they took us by boat to a Christian church service at the Naceva Village on Beqa. The children, dressed in their finest whites ran to the dock to greet us and I felt truly honored to be a guest in their home. I realized Fiji tends to have that effect on you, as the entire Royal Davui staff gathered on the dock to sing Isalei, the Fijian song of farewell, tears filling my eyes.  I watched their waving arms disappear into the horizon, my mind remembering one truth by author Cyrus Augustus Bartol, “Gentleness and kindness will make our homes a paradise upon earth”.

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